Best done with a No.6 or 7…heh! Comment noted though and thanks - Rob
Oakee kokkee heads down for another year of brexit waffle…what do we care or to put it another way a man goes to his doctor “doctor doctor, people keep ignoring me”…doctor…“next please”
Ref band saw set up thanks for your link to demonstration, very interesting although I watched this utube vid some time ago. I appreciate your reminder link.
After buying my bandsaw …bought top and bottom bearings, rear thrust bearing, tyres and drive belts. I need to check that its functioning properly and what better time than the new year.
If I can please ask your opinion, on your hyper link the thrust bearing is shown with its axis parallel to band saw face and on Mr Woodways Axminster link it runs at 90deg.
In other words one shows blade guided by bearing periphery i.e. At a tangent. Surely that is correct use of a bearing housing, a rather silly question really, or is it.?? Who am I to question makers engineering expertise.
After watching Axminster demo I was taken into types of blades available …TPI, width, type steel dah Dee dah. I currently have a 1/2" blade and will change to a 1/4" wide blade. This I feel will enable me to cut curves.
John
Not quite sure here what you’re on about John? If you take say, the set above the table, the two each side of the blade shouldn’t touch it as there should be some clearance; the approx. thickness of a piece of A4 paper (not an exact science) Similarly with the bearing at the back of the blade. It doesn’t matter if it’s face on or curved periphery to the blade as long as it doesn’t touch when the blade is stationary. It should only come into contact when the blade is moving to give support.
If you try out Ax blades, go for a diamond ground one to suit your machine…they are extremely good. On my BS11 I use a 10mm 6tpi blade which lasts for yonks, even when used every day. Also, don’t forget to take off the blade tension at the end of the day.
Well rob I think you did well to untangle my question, thank you. I am really am clear now on blade/roller set up and periphery/ face of rear roller.
I note your advice re blade thank you
My band saw area needs a rethink to be able to move out and spin round at 90 deg.
My work shop is 10’ x 14’. Trouble is I have a problem with throwing out wood, this takes up so much space. I think my bench at 7’ x. 3.5’ is too big
And of course my lovely collection of moulding planes. Big advantage is my workshop is integral to our house it’s kept warmish from the house even has fitted carpet!!
It is a biggish bench for the size of the 'shop but personally I’d be loathe to part with it for anything smaller. In my mind, the bench is the most important (and often overlooked) ‘tool’ in the workshop. I reckon you’d feel very uncomfortable working on something smaller with less mass (assuming your bench is clunky like mine)
I like collecting wood as well and hate to throw out stuff, but it’s quite surprising how creative you can become at storing the offcuts. I have two under bench (honing and pillar drill) storage racks for longish large bits, two big green plastic boxes for chunky smaller lumps and a chipboard drawer under the workbench itself for long skinny bits (ideal for lippings etc) which are too good to chuck.
Ok but I always seem to add to the problem, I can’t pass a skip and I can pick up offcuts from my mate at the timber yard for free. No the answer here is I am due for a pre spring clearout…
Skip diving is great, much to the annoyance of 'er indoors; I can’t pass one without have a swift peek to see what sort of goodies are lurking within. More often than not it’s junk put I have heard tales of lucky so n’so’s who’ve pulled out planks of teak from a skip.
A good turf out is also worth doing from time to time, but any squarish offcuts are easily made into turning blanks.
Hhhhmmm…I think a shim under the bearing assembly to raise it away from the metal over the band would have been quicker and easier, and not require you to make a hole in the metalwork at all…it might have raised the bearings a little, but the effect would not have been of any consequence…other than removing the problem without all that hard work…
Agreed, there’s always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. This was how I did it at the time, but had the little grey cells been lined up and functioning correctly, I may have done it differently. That said, this solution works well and the bearing nearest the chassis no longer becomes constantly clogged with sawdust.
I just looked at the price of the Axminster trade BS11 Bandsaw - over £1k…that’s pretty expensive for a benchtop bandsaw… I bought a Makita LB1200F2 bandsaw (complete on floor-stand) for £462 delivered…which does a good job, and I didn’t have to start drilling holes in it…
See: http://www.makitauk.com/products/saws/bandsaws/lb1200f-305mm-band-saw.html
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