How To Set Up Your Router Table

Originally published at:

Hints and tips on how to correctly set up your router table. Including advice on setting the fence and correctly fitting the insert plate.

Thanks for the helpful tips to set up router table.

No mention is made of the under table dust extraction box with 100mm outlet to take away any chips/dust that find their way below the table, combined with the clever combination of the 63mm attachment to the fence it almost makes routing on the table a dust free operation, excellent product.


I have one of those boxes set up under my UJK table. They work; sort of! It collects dust and debris but my 2hp NVD750 extractor won’t pull it out into the can. The best reason for having one is that it cuts down the router racket. When I do my routine maintenance it’s a thirty second job to clean out the box and lubricate the chain and threads on the router lift.

You have a vacuum cleaner not a chip extractor on your router table, the NVD750 is ideal for dust collection from small tools, but will struggle with collecting large particles produced from a Router, what you need is a FM300BC type extractor, not a vacuum cleaner. : this is what I have on my UJK table and it clears everything from out of the box, in fact small dogs and children are not allowed into the workshop when it is on. LOL

There is a distinct difference between a HVLP (High volume Low Pressure) chip collector and a LVHP (Low volume High Pressure) dust collector, neither will do each others job, it will be a compromise to try.

The NVD will collect from the top hose, but won’t empty the box. The suction is so powerful that it swallowed one of these things when the nozzle came too close. I’m aware of the differences between the two sorts of extractors but the system I have now works for me in that I don’t have to have a permanent connection to the router box, see part 4 of my article on Dust Extraction

I find it a bit strange that you say you know the difference, but have complained that the dust box only works “sort of” if you used the right equipment on the dust box it would work in the way it is intended too and the box would empty as mine does, I have the Neumatic two motor 2400watt (3.2hp) unit and even that will not empty the dust box, but is good for its intended purpose, which is dust collection the fact that Axminster has put a 100mm inlet on the canister of one of their units does not mean it will work, there is just not the volume of air movement to effectively work on the large amount of chips that are produced by a Router Table.

This may help you to truly understand the difference and why you have to have both HVLP and LVHP in the workshop:

I’ve set it up this way because my router table is in the middle of the workshop and it wasn’t convenient to plumb it into the main 100 mm dx system (Camvac powered). It is a compromise and the vac extractor isn’t the correct type, hence why it works ‘sort of’. That said, it does give me the capability to plug in the Numatic and partially extract the waste, even if the box is left with router debris inside.
The main point is that in my workshop, as in many other things woodwork related, this set up works for ME. I don’t intend to carry on this conversation on this thread as it’s liable to go on forever and day but it’s been good to exchange views.

Even the most powerful Camvac only has an extract rate of 570 M3/hr, the Numatics and the 750 NVD according to Numatic themselves have a flow rate of approximately 450 M3/hr this compares to 2000 M3/hr of the FM300BC what can be gleaned from these figures it that your Router Dust box will only work “sort of”. I have all of my equipment on stands with lockable castors, so whatever machine I am using at any time I can move to a convenient point and attach the correct extract unit, It would have been good to carry on the conversation especially on the use of Cyclones, could save some people a lot of time effort and cash.

There are different types of router tables and some come with the router attached already.
A router table holds your router in a stationary position so you can feed the wood into it, kind of (but not exactly) like you feed wood into a table saw. It allows you to use a fence and guide slots for more accurate work. I highly recommend them.

And you can build your own (You Tube is your friend here). At its very simplest a router table is just a piece of wood with a hole cut in it. If you are building your own, then you can decide what options you want and go from there.
You would need to know how to setup a router table and your workpiece up by adjusting the fence and positioning the wood so it is easy to work on.

If you have never used a router before then you would be wise to get yourself a book and some video explainers.
Mostly, you can rout.